Book 6, Question 15 · Video
Why Do Waves Get Bigger Near Shore?
In deep water, a wave is a long, low shape. Near shore, the bottom crowds it from below. So the wave stands taller, until it breaks.
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What Crafty Clover says in this video
Intro
Hey there, curious minds! I'm Crafty Clover! Let's discover something amazing. Why do waves get bigger near shore?
The Big Idea
In deep water, a wave is a long, low shape. Near shore, the bottom crowds it from below. So the wave stands taller, until it breaks. That is why a gentle swell far out at sea can turn into a crashing wave at the beach.
A Swell Travels
Step one: a swell travels. In deep water, a wave is long and low, so you hardly notice it. It carries lots of energy across the sea. Waves are mostly energy, and a wave in deep water can travel thousands of miles.
The Bottom Gets Shallow
Step two: the bottom gets shallow. When the sea floor rises, it drags on the wave and slows it. The waves behind catch up and crowd together. The front of the wave slows down first, while the back keeps rushing forward.
It Piles Up and Breaks
Step three: the wave piles up and breaks. The same energy is squeezed into less water, so the wave stands taller. The top outruns the bottom, and tumbles over as foam. When the wave gets too steep, the top has nothing underneath it, so it falls forward.
A Closer Look
Let's take a closer look at a wave near shore! In deep water, the swell is long and low. As the water gets shallow, the wave rises. The crest tips over and breaks. All because the shallow bottom slows the wave.
Quick Facts
Quick facts! Never turn your back on a rising shore break. A calm-looking swell can stand up into a crash. Bigger waves near shore do not mean it is safe to jump in. Waves slow down in shallow water.
Think Like a Scientist
Now, think like a scientist! Watch the waves from a safe spot. Count the seconds between waves. Watch how each wave changes as it nears the sand. Why does the wave slow when the water gets shallow? Scientists watch carefully and stay safe. Happy exploring!
Outro
The same wave stands taller when the bottom crowds it! Crafty Clover can be found on Amazon Books, Google Bookstore, and Apple Books. Available for purchase or download! Bye for now!